Over its 20-year history, bigger, flashier resorts have tried to upstage little Cocoa. All-singing hotels with submerged spas, snow rooms, and ice-skating rinks. But this living coral island, still in a plum, not-too-hectic spot in the often-busy South Malé atoll, 40 minutes from the airport by speedboat, has remained in the limelight precisely because of its gimmick-free simplicity. The newly refreshed overwater villas (34 in total, some shaped like Maldivian dhoni boats) are the epitome of less is more, with dark teak, crisp white walls and deep bathtubs. Compared to its Bali sibling, the sandy-floored COMO Shambhala spa here is less comprehensive, which feels like a bit of a missed opportunity, but the therapists are still top of their game and soothe, stroke, and crush out every molecule of tension in the signature massage.
There’s a new Pilates studio, where head-to-toe alignment programs straighten out even the most WFH-weary postures and new COMO wellness retreats are promised by the end of the year. For now, extra reinvigoration comes during an hour being pummeled by a dozen jets in the free hydrotherapy pool. But, of course, it’s the Indian Ocean that’s the main watery attraction and unlike a lot of the reefs that surround Malé, Cocoa Island’s are colorful, varied, and recovering well from the 2016 worldwide bleaching event. You’ll also spot octopus, lobster, lionfish, reef sharks, and amber-eyed hawksbill turtles—take a trip with Aminath Angeela (a rarely spotted Maldivian female marine conservationist) to learn more about rising sea temperatures and coral regeneration. In keeping with the low-key vibe, there’s only one restaurant, but the food is always enticing. There are coconut smoothie bowls for breakfast; proper pizzas and lobster rolls for lunch; and an Indonesian feast or a surf ’n’ turf barbecue come evening. Plus, the same thoughtful, delicious wellness menus you find at every COMO hotel. Peaceful, pampering, smart but unpretentious: this is the essence of what a Maldives hotel should be. —L.C.
